I didn’t sleep much last night. I guess I should have stayed awake on the plane. Kaleb slept like a log, even though he was on the floor. We were supposed to have a triple room, but somehow things got mixed up and we ended up with two twin beds. The receptionist said they’d have us a cot in five minutes. After thirty minutes, Kaleb couldn’t wait anymore and just curled up on the floor, where he slept soundly all night long. They came with the extra bed a little too late for him.
We were in the dining hall half an hour before the rest of our group this morning, so we finished breakfast early and had some free time before getting on the bus. The Mediterranean Sea was right outside our window so we went down and stuck our toes in the very clear and warm water (see photo above). Kaleb and I collected pockets full of shells and enjoyed the warm sand between our toes. It would have been nice to jump in and go for a swim.
Our first stop was Caesaria, one of the biggest and most impressive harbor towns in the ancient world. King Herod built it in honor of Caesar, so it was quite grand, and still is, actually. They do a good job there of taking the visitor back in time and showing (with digital technology) how the harbor looked and how it was built. They also explain very clearly who occupied that space and for how long over the past centuries. The Apostle Paul spent two years in jail in that town so it was very easy to visualize Biblical days when starting off in that place. And our guide, Halvor, is great at stopping to read appropriate scripture where it applies. I really could have hung out there by the edge of the sea all day long, but there was more to see and do so after a few hours, we hit the road again.
We saw Mt. Temor in the not too distant horizon as we drove along – it’s the category one sight of Jesus’ transfiguration. Everything here is close to everything else. (See photo above.)
Our next stop was lunch (falafels) at a café up on Mt. Carmel, built just for the tourist trade – no surprise there. Then on to the Catholic monastery at the top, that was built in honor of the prophet, Elijah. It was on Mt. Carmel where Elijah had the contest with the hundreds of other “prophets” as to whose God was real. Fire descended and burned up the wet offering Elijah had taunted the other prophets to burn. The roof of the monastery provided quite the overview of the Meggido Valley and the hills of Samaria. Kaleb spotted a natural green cross growing in the farm land below. Cool.
It’s amazing to me how rich this land is for farming. I didn’t know it before, but apparently the Jews didn’t have much in the way of farming skills. Because they couldn’t take that trade with them if their land got taken away, where ever they were living, they all developed skills that were more transportable. Once they got their country back, no one knew how to farm anymore. The rich banker, Rothschild, started an agricultural school after WWII in Israel and provided financing to help them start farming the land again, and man is there a lot of farming going on! We went through several valleys today that had all kinds of things growing – it was an impressive sight. I saw peppers, grapes, tomatoes, loquats, olive trees, sunflowers, wheat, orange trees, potatoes, and many more crops that whizzed by before I could identify them. They’ve had an unusual abundance of rain this year so everything is lush and green. For some reason, when I think of Israel, I think desert, but what we’ve seen so far has been quite the opposite. A land “flowing with milk and honey,” perhaps?
We left Mt. Carmel and drove on into Nazareth where we went up on a hill for an overlook of the city. The Catholics or Greek Orthodox have built churches over all the spots in Israel where they believe certain things happened, so it’s hard to imagine just how things could have been two thousand years ago in towns that are still active and growing, but it was still something to behold. A Greek church sits over the only spring in town where some believe Mary was visited by the angel and told she would become the mother of Jesus. A huge Catholic compound and church is built over the spot where THEY believe Mary was visited by the angel. They aren’t far from each other. We didn’t go inside either church, but we saw them from the nearby hill top and drove right by them on the way through the city. Nazareth was just a nothing little town in the bottom of a bowl – being surrounded on three sides by sloping hills. God certainly could have picked a more glorious place for His son to grow up, but then it wouldn’t have made the same impact. There are plenty of gorgeous places around here, but the point was obviously better made that Jesus came from humble beginnings.
Just up and over the ridge from Nazareth is the town of Canaan where Jesus turned the water into wine. We drove through that town and I guess it’s quite the tourist stop for those interested in buying wine. I would have preferred a bottle of water.
Our destination today was the Sea of Galilee (photo above) so we drove on through the Valley of Megiddo in order to get there. Some believe that valley will be where the final battle is fought in the end times - at Armageddon, but who knows. We drove right by one of Herod’s chariot cities that held tens of thousands of horses, back in the day. I visited that sight in 1996 when I was first in Israel, but it wasn’t on our list of places to see this time. There wasn’t much to see anyway – just the foundations for all the stables.
As we approached the Sea of Galilee we could see Mt. Hermon in the distance, to the north. Our hotel is right on the coastline of the lake, which is really more of what the Sea of Galilee is, as it’s not that big. It almost seems possible to swim from one side to the other. It’s a warm night but a nice breeze makes it all quite tolerable. After all the rain we’ve had in Norway this Spring, I’m not complaining!
We had dinner in the hotel with our group and then chatted with them all in the lounge afterwards. There are ten guys and five women, with one newlywed couple and us being the only married ones. Rune, our fearless leader, told us of some horrific stories from his trip here last year while spying out the land. It only confirmed my long held idea that this is not the place to visit, UNLESS with a tour group.
Rune and Pastor Mark had made hotel reservations last year, but didn’t know the full consequences of it being during the holiest period of the year (kind of like being in Norway on a Sunday.) Everything was closed. When they showed up at the hotel after midnight, it too, was closed. No one was working the front desk because it was forbidden to work on that day. They had to break into their room in order to get some sleep, but then the police showed up with machine guns pointed right at them and they had to leave, even after explaining they had reservations and all. They ended up driving over three hours in search of another hotel room, but as Mary found out, “there was no room at the inn” because of this special day. They spent over $400 on that taxi ride, but eventually found a place that had a vacancy - at seven in the morning. It wasn’t funny at the time, but he was sure laughing about it tonight. He learned from that experience to never come to Israel during any of their Holy days. So here we are, free from Holy days and no complaints so far. Just good weather, pretty good food, and hopefully a good night’s sleep ahead of me. Hallelujah.
