The End of the Line

We reached our furthest destination today when we arrived in Kirkenes, which is a city that sits nearly on the Russian border.  We purchased a three-hour tour to go right up to the border and do some sight seeing around the area, but once we arrived, I started thinking about that three hours on the bus.  I just couldn’t do it.  I didn’t even care we couldn’t get a refund, I just knew I didn’t want to be shuttled from a ship with several hundred people, on to a bus with several dozen people.  I’m already feeling cramped enough as it is.  So Kory and I opted out and just walked the 15 minutes into the heart of town to see what there was to see.

I must say, we’ve passed some pretty cute little villages along the way up here (see photo above), but this town wouldn’t be one of them.  It’s a very rough looking working town where everyone here is just here for their jobs at sea and no one apparently has time to make their homes or the town look inviting.  Even the few sidewalks we walked on were scraped almost down to nothing from the snowplows that run most of the year.  In the heart of town, clumps of salt still sat along the storefronts.  I’m sure they were salting the sidewalks just weeks ago, as it was pretty chilly today even.

Kory stopped and talked to a local who was cutting his grass.  It was surprising there was even any grass to cut, but Kirkenes does lie much further south than the North Cape, as we’ve rounded the top of Norway now and headed south for a whole day to get here.  The guy paused for a minute then said he has to cut his grass about four months out of the year.  Kory was surprised and said, “Really?  That long?”  And the guy responded with, “Well, maybe three months.”  The rest of the time he’s shoveling snow.  Brrr.

We found a thrift store in the heart of the city and gladly spent a few bucks there buying some handmade items from Russian and a few more pewter treasures.  Most of the people in this town are Russian and all the signs are in Norwegian and Russian.  Maybe not surprisingly, the only grocery store in town is allowed to sell hard alcohol. It’s the only place in all of Norway THAT is allowed. I’m sure they use it as a personal anti-freeze device.

While we were walking around town I still felt like I was on the ferry, as I got a bad case of vertigo or sea legs or something.  I was wobbling all over the place, which was a new experience for me.  It was hard to stand in one spot, but it was better if I kept moving. 

We enjoyed our time off the ship as Kory bought himself some wool slippers in a handmade store, and some dried cod in the grocery store.  We talked to the others after we got back on board and they had all gone on tours but it seems like maybe we made the best choice.

On the way back to the ship, I cut across an empty field, rather than walk the paved road.  There was an Arctic Tern that wasn’t happy at all with my decision.  I was dive bombed at least thirty times in just a few minutes.  I sat my camera on my head just so she wouldn’t pull out my hair, as she was going for blood.  I wished I could have taken a photo of her attack, as it was pretty funny, until she pooped all over me and my camera, my coat, my cheek, my hair.  I guess that was even funnier.  Boy was she ticked so I obviously came too close to her nest.  I was laughing hysterically when I came back to the room.  Kory had missed the whole thing as he’d rushed ahead of me to use the toilet.  If someone would have videoed that, I’m sure it could have won a prize as it was quite the sight.  So that ended up being my big excitement for the day.

We had another hour-long stop later this afternoon at Vardø, a city that has the most northern fort.  The fort was built in 1763, so we walked around there for a while, snapping a few photos and enjoying the time off the ship again.  It’s very cold up here, but at least it hasn’t been raining.  If anything, I’m sure it would be snow coming down as it’s got to be close to freezing outside.

Tonight on the top deck they had a demonstration of the different sea life that can live in these Arctic temperatures.  They set up various aquariums with live samples of the sea life, but most people were huddled inside, looking out the window and listening to the lecture.  It was pretty interesting.  Last night’s talk was a local fisherman showing people how to cut the tongue out of the Torsk fish (cod) because Torsk tongue is a delicacy in Norway and he was sure everyone would want to develop that skill.  No thanks.  It was offered for dinner last night, but I opted out.  As I did tonight, with the Reindeer sausage and steaks on the menu.  I’m not much on adventures in eating.

I finally finished my Israel photo book tonight.  While I was in the room working on it, I turned on the TV just in time to see the beginning of a new TV show that is running non stop for the next 12 days.  Coincidentally, it’s live streaming of a journey on the Hurtigruten Coastal Ferry all the way up the coast of Norway and back down again.  Obviously it’s a different ship than the one we are on, but we should be passing it while we head south and they head north.  They are calling it “Minute by minute, Hurtigruten” and everyone in Norway is so excited it’s going to be broadcast on TV.  I heard a lot of talk about it prior to tonight as many people only dream of taking this trip, and now they can, virtually, through their TV.   It looks like Bergen has a little better weather down south than we do up here as we are socked in again with gray skies and low clouds, but we aren’t missing much so I’m not complaining.  I can just flip on the TV now and see a whole different view.

I was finally able to get an internet connection today for just a few minutes at a time when we were docked in various ports.  I was glad for that as I’m feeling kinda isolated up here in the far north.  I also got a telephone signal and called Kaleb.  He’s doing great and doesn’t sound nearly as weary as I feel.  Tomorrow we stop for 90 minutes in Hammerfest, the town where Kory’s parents met, so that’s about the only thing left to look forward to – except arriving back home in Aalesund.  I’m homesick something terrible!

One More Time...

I was up early this morning, finishing up another talk I gave on Christian radio today. I should have prepared it earlier in the week, but I’m easily distracted. The talk went pretty well I think, and I heard good things afterwards, so I’m thankful for that. Synnøve (see photo) is the best translator ever, but she swears it’s because I use easy words. I must confess, I think Norwegian when I prepare, so maybe she is right. I don’t use big words or any slang, so that helps. I want the message to be clearly understood. Kory was listening in the car as he was driving around and he said my voice sounds really great over the radio because I talk slow and steady (not like in real life). He didn’t hear the whole hour I was on, but he heard enough to be impressed. It’s rare I can impress him, so I’m even more thankful for that. I talked about soaking prayer and spending quiet time with God. Oh, how we all need more of that.




Kory had a meeting today with the top doctor and manager in charge of the care center where Tante Ruth now lives (we know him from Agape Church.) Kory had a few questions for him and he got the answers he was looking for. He found out the management there can take over the responsibility for handling Ruth’s money, so that was good to know. The care center takes 75% of all her income to pay for her living there, so it doesn’t leave much for her to use on other things, but there really isn’t much she needs. She just wants to be sure God gets his ten percent, and she’s happy. I guess if a person had a lot of income, they would decide not to go to a care center in Norway, but it’s a pretty good deal for those who don’t have much, like Tante Ruth.



I was out running errands today when Kory boiled up the fish he caught last night. The house still smells fishy. I guess I’m glad I missed that meal. He said it tasted OK. I guess if it were fresh from the sea, it might have tasted better. It’s not like he did anything wrong in cooking it. Boiled fish is boiled fish. He boiled up some rutabaga and potatoes to go with it. He is Norsk to the core.

We didn’t see Kaleb until dinner time as he went home after school with his friends. I picked him up in time to go out for dinner at some of our friend’s house, who also happen to be Kory’s third cousin and his wife. They are so fun to spend time with, I always look forward to an evening with them. And Anne-Grete is a fabulous cook, so the food is always extra special. (The expression “I look forward to” in Norwegian is “jeg gleder meg” – which literally translated is “I glad myself.” I always chuckle when I use that phrase because it sounds so funny – like, “I peed myself.”)



I completed my shopping for bedding today and began the process of packing things to take home. Oh, it’s so sad to think about leaving here. Everyone agrees the time has gone by just too quickly. I’m a little bummed that we didn’t have more time for hikes in the mountains or just relaxing a bit, but there is always next year to look forward to as we now plan to spend every April, May and June here in our very own home in Norway. It’s mind boggling to think we’ve been blessed so much that we actually have such a place. And our little 725 square foot condo is now worth way more than our 2,900 square foot house in America, so it’s a good investment to have as well. The condo right under us (which is not nearly as nice as ours) just went up for sale (the owner died.) There were over 50 people attending the open house. It sold for $76,000 more than they were asking. It shocked everyone who lives here. I think the harsh winter they had last year really put the spotlight on the convenience of living in a place attached to the mall. We only have old people for neighbors and most of them use walkers to get around. Of course for us, this place only impacts our bank account in a negative way, unless we sell it, and we don’t plan to do that anytime soon.



I designed a very hip flyer today to advertise our convenient “short term rental” at the mall. I was hoping to go around the neighborhood tomorrow and talk to different businesses, trying to get some kind of arrangement set up before we leave, but I can’t get my stupid printer to work. I hate technology. Maybe the condo will stay empty and just word of mouth will fill it. There is such a housing shortage right now a friend of mine told me she answered an ad for an apartment and the owners got over 40 applications. They had to go through an interview process before they were selected. She felt like she hit the jackpot. So with that kind of housing situation, it would be a shame to leave this place empty, but I also don’t want to have to deal with things breaking or needing attention and we have to fix it from America. Calling in any kind of repair person could easily cost a thousand dollars just for them to show up. Prices in Norway are pretty scary if Norwegian labor is involved, so that could eat up any money we’d receive in rent fairly quickly. Living in Norway is not for the faint of heart. Our pockets are not nearly as deep as they used to be, but God always provides.

Nine Days To Go

Guilt was a big factor in me going to school today. I tuned out a long time ago and haven’t learned many new things lately, but I have this problem of needing to complete things I commit to, even when it makes no sense. Also, My Pal Vestina sent me a text message saying she missed me yesterday and she really needed to talk to me. I have become her “second mother” she says and she has no one else to help solve her problems. She doesn’t really need any help, as she’s quite capable herself, she just likes confirmation she’s doing the right thing. The Good Teacher Inga wasn’t there today so I needed extra motivation to get out the door. Vestina had “news” to tell me, so I just had to go find out what it was.

Her “old” boyfriend was in town over the weekend. She didn’t come to our class party last Friday because she wanted to be with him. She thought she was done with him, but he poured out his heart and love for her and asked her to be with him again. He got a new job awhile ago about 15 hours drive from here and the separation has not been good for him. Vestina is still wanting a little more time apart before she decides if she should follow him and his new job. But that wasn’t the news. It seems for the third time in a two week span, yet another man has fallen for her. This time, it is her neighbor – a guy from Holland. Apparently, he couldn’t wait any longer and seeing that her “boyfriend” was once again out of the picture, he declared his undying love for her. He asked her to move in with him and promised her the moon – said he’d cook and clean and treat her like a queen. As he was going on and on about how he’d quit smoking if she wanted him to, or start working out if she wanted him to have a better body, or quit drinking if she didn’t like it, Vestina just looked at him and said rather rudely, “Blah, blah, blah.” I thought I’d bust a gut laughing when she told me that. Vestina said the guy said, “No, it’s not blah, blah, blah – I really mean those things!” Here is yet another guy whose heart has been broken by My Pal Vestina. She now wants me to meet the guy so I can tell her what I think of him. I told her I didn’t need to meet him – I’m certain she made the right choice. What’s with all these guys that haven’t even been on a date with this woman – and yet they want her to move in with them? It’s certain they are not Norwegians because Norwegians hold out the longest time before ever even saying they love someone, and then, maybe just saying it once in a lifetime. These other guys just slobber all over her, totally humiliating themselves. I just love how she sets them straight. I laughed for a good five minutes over that whole situation. What a hoot. It was worth the trip into town.

When I got home today I began another project I shouldn’t have, but I couldn’t help myself. Once I got all the best photos together from our trip last Fall up to the Lofoten Islands, I decided to order up one of those fancy self-published coffee table picture books. I checked all the places I knew I could order them over the internet, and found a place here in Norway that had the coolest software available, even if I couldn’t fully utilize it because I can’t read all those technical Norwegian terms. The book, hopefully, will look fabulous. I was able to spend every remaining minute of my day on that project and send it off for printing before midnight. Kaleb went home from school with his friends so he wasn’t around all afternoon and Kory was over at Odd’s putting new wood on the ceiling in his bedroom. I had the house to myself and it was raining and I needed no more excuse than that. Of course, I did have to take a four hour break to eat, as we were graciously invited over to Andre’s house for dinner. Andre is one of Kaleb’s good buddies and his parents attend Filadelfia Church so we’ve gotten to know them a little better these last few months. Andre’s mom, Janne, was at our house last night for the Bible study group so it was very cool to be invited over to their house for dinner tonight. And we had my favorite food – which is always any food I don’t have to cook. But actually, it was an incredibly yummy meal and we had a wonderful evening visiting with the adults while the kids ran around the house playing hide-n-seek (a favorite game in these parts). Kaleb will surely miss Andre. He even missed him today because Andre stayed home from school to recover from an injury. Yesterday, on his way home from school, Andre tripped and landed on a rock about the size of a football but shaped more like a wedge. He put one heck of a gash in his shin so deep it didn’t even bleed. He passed out from the pain however and needed eight stitches. When he thinks about it, he limps and needs sympathy, but when running around the house with Kaleb tonight, it would be hard to tell anything was wrong with him. Too funny. Janne and I talked about how much we do to protect our kids from harm, and then something like this happens. What’s a mother to do?

Taxes!

I’m writing this from my new laptop, sitting in a cute little beach cabin on Camano Island. Kory and Kaleb and I are having a little family vacation, before we leave on our trip. This photo was taken last night after the sun went down. Kaleb got the idea that we should launch a burning barge out on the water (in the style of a Norwegian viking king burial ship) and then go roast marshmallows (probably not something they did back then). Funny boy. Adventurous mind.

I'd like Kaleb to have as much of a normal summer as possible. He’ll be going to Vacation Bible School, summer science camp and family camp all in the next few weeks. Gotta get while the gettin’s good. Summer is my best time to socialize him since there are so many day camps and fun activities to do. I usually have him tied up for 4 weeks each summer doing something to expand his horizons. School will start just a few weeks after we arrive in Norway so I want him to feel like he had a good summer of fun before he starts in with all the big changes.

I wrote an e-mail to the “toll” office in Norway. They got back to me about my concerns over our shipment – do we have to be in Oslo when the boxes arrive, etc. He said we can clear customs in Aalesund, which is hugely good news since it would be so expensive to get down to Oslo just for a formality. He said “once we pay the tax” our stuff will be released to us. I’m bracing for how much that will be.

I got a notice on our last statement from our Norwegian bank account that said any purchases made outside Norway using the ATM card will just automatically tack on their tax to the amount withdrawn. Good old Norwegian ingenuity… figuring out how to tax you even when you are out of the country! (Their sales tax is a whopping 25%.) So the amount of tax we will owe on what we bring in should be something to consider. Most everything is "used" so that’s tax free but we did have to buy some things and all totaled up was just over $1,000 of new items. If I read their website properly then we each should be able to bring in $1,200 worth of stuff tax free… so I’m hoping we make out OK, but you never know. Oh well, I say… it’s just money! And in Norway you actually get something for the taxes you pay – things like free medical, free education, guaranteed retirement… stuff like that. And they don’t have property tax. So when you think about all the different taxes we have and what the money goes for, I’d much rather pay high taxes in Norway and feel like there was some value there. But enough about that…

The sun is setting and I must go see what God will paint in the sky tonight.